by Kim Buisson

When you ask people what they are thankful for, they tend to be specific. When you ask them what they are thankful for on Thanksgiving Day at Valois on 53rd Street, they tend to be prolific. It was around 4pm and a dozen diners were sitting behind heaping trays of food. A bearded man spoke loudly to one of the restaurant owners about a recent picture of Obama on the wall, and though the owner stood far away, seemingly disinterested, he replied in a thick Greek accent that the President had stopped by the joint during his last visit to Hyde Park.

Since the majority of the cafeteria’s customers sat alone, the room was quiet, and unlike most other days at Valois, no children were present. A man and woman sat at a table near the counter. Their eyes were closed and they held hands above the trays in between them. They were saying grace.

A poster board boasting the Thanksgiving specials was hanging in front of the menu: roast turkey, baked ham, roast beef, or baked fish or chicken, with a choice of soup or salad, and a couple of sides, all for $8.95. Not bad considering what it would have cost me to fly home for this meal.

Veteran James, the bearded man, greeted me as I wandered past his table. I asked him what he was thankful for this Thanksgiving. Without contemplation, he promptly replied, “I am thankful for the Jesse Brown Medical Center taking care of my medical needs for the past seven years.”

A woman sitting a few tables away was vaguely gazing at the muted Dr. Phil on the television. She spoke quietly and told me her name was Linda. “I am thankful for the safety and health of my children,” she said. She paused. “And for my new job,” she added. I jokingly asked if there was anything for which she was not thankful; she smiled and answered with levity, “For not having a good man in my life.”

Fully clothed in University of Chicago paraphernalia, two students were eavesdropping at the next table.  They were international relations students, and in unison said that they were “not thankful for North Korea right now.” They must have been alluding to the reckless artillery attack it carried out against South Korea last week.

Two other students were feasting in their winter coats at a table nearby. It was unclear whether the meal they were having was their breakfast or their dinner, for they seemed to have just rolled out of bed. In fact, one of them, Andreas, said he was thankful “for good nights of sleep and not thankful for the fucking flu.” His friend Jeremy was eager to say he was thankful for art and sternly added that he was unthankful for “the obligatory requirements of technology in our everyday life.”

In the corner by the entrance, a couple in their mid-20s, Nick and Jen, were dining. Jen, in a plaid flannel shirt, said she was not thankful for capitalism and globalization. Clearly she had another economic design in mind because she also said, “I am thankful for my dog Georgie, and for my bike, and decaf coffee.”

Her friend Nick declared, “I am not thankful for hate. That’s it.” He then earnestly added, “I am thankful for leg warmers, sweatpants, wind, earth, water, fire.”

In fact, at the risk of sounding trite, it seemed that many of the students hadn’t been thinking too much about the question.

An habitué of Valois, an old man with a hat, a cane, and a trench coat was making his way around the restaurant, saluting busboys and customers. All he said when asked what he was thankful for was, “I am just glad to be here!”

One of the employees was helping Ahmed and his wheelchair get settled at a table. Ahmed’s response to my question was: “Family. I am thankful for family. They’ve been so good to me this year. And the grace of God. It brought me this far. I am grateful for today. For talking with—what’s your name?—for talking with you, Kim. Did you write that down? Talking with Kim? I’ve been through thirteen surgeries. Now I am healthy and wise…I got that from the Bible, healthy and wise.” He also asked me to write down that he was not thankful for people not having health insurance in this country.

Elaine was serenely sitting alone and looking out onto the street. She told me she was thankful for the many Thanksgivings her son gave her and for all the places they had gone together. She explained, “Today he’s in California and his girlfriend has diabetes, but I am thankful I can help. I am thankful I can sit here and enjoy this meal. For all that I have. For my apartment. And everyday, I praise the Lord, the Holy Spirit. I am thankful for the past and for the present. And I am thankful for you asking me this question!”

A woman and her son overheard my conversation with Elaine, with whom I was speaking loudly, since she was hard of hearing. She came up to me and said, “I have things to be grateful for. Will you write them down?” I nodded. “To be alive! That’s a great thing! To be able to eat and pray. I’ve had problems with gastric reflux and I was in the hospital, unable to eat. And being here now…” She paused and laid her hand on my shoulder. “Being able to eat is a great thing.”

best art complex
Hyde Park Art Center
Billed as the “oldest alternative exhibition space in the City,” the Hyde Park Art Center provides the Hyde Park-Kenwood community with innovative exhibitions, exciting programming, and art classes for all levels. Founded in 1939, it recently celebrated its 70th anniversary with a 70-day series of events and exhibitions that ranged from a kimchi-making party to artists’ talks and poetry readings. In the 1960s, HPAC was the main venue for exhibitions by the Chicago Imagists, perhaps the most prominent art movement the city has produced. Today HPAC hosts about six exhibitions at a time, many of which are accompanied by lectures, readings, musical performances, and open house events. On the south side of the building is one of the two locations of Istria Cafe, a neighborhood coffeeshop known for its gelato and ample comfortable seating. HPAC has been led by Executive Director Chuck Thurow for the last ten years, during which time it found its first permanent home in a former army warehouse; at the end of this year he will be replaced by former HPAC Director of Development Kate Lorenz. 5020 S. Cornell Ave. Monday-Thursday, 9am-8pm; Friday-Saturday, 9am-5pm; Sunday, noon-5pm. (773)324-5520. hydeparkart.org (Leah Reisman)

best collision of cultures
Rajun Cajun
The fact that Rajun Cajun serves a highly unusual mix of Indian and soul food is not why you should go there. You should go there because its food, regardless of national origin, is delicious. For about $10, you can get an Indian combo dinner (the butter chicken is an old standby) that includes a vegetable dish, a paratha, and a samosa. Pair it with a corn muffin or two and you’ve got a meal that will keep you warm through the cold winter. (Like many local restaurants, Rajun Cajun will deliver within Hyde Park for a small charge, helping you avoid both freezing to death and starving.) Alternatively you could go the Southern route, with a fried chicken dinner and some sweet potatoes or macaroni and cheese. Throw in a samosa on the side and it’s still multicultural. But more importantly, delicious. 1459 E. 53rd St. Monday-Saturday, 11am-9:30pm; Sunday, noon-8:30pm. (773)955-1145 (Sam Feldman)

best breakfast
Valois
Though open all day, cafeteria-style Valois is busiest at breakfast-time. Don’t be intimidated by the line: the kitchen is run like an assembly line and the disparate elements of a meal are quickly assembled on each tray, ensuring their warmth as you settle down to eat them. As the awning entreats you, “SEE YOUR FOOD.” Dishes like hash browns, scrambled eggs, pancakes, and bacon are large, cheap, and satisfying, and murals of Hyde Park landmarks provide a cheery backdrop against which to eat at whatever pace you’d like. For a real cross-section of Hyde Park, wander into Valois on a Saturday morning: you’ll see retirees, white-collar types, cops, professors, students, and perhaps the President of the United States, all enjoying their food in a communal hubbub. Valois opens at 5:30am, rendering their breakfast also the perfect end to a long weekend night, especially if you’re up to walking a few extra blocks east to watch sunrise over the lake. Cash only. 1518 E. 53rd St. 5:30am-10pm. valoisrestaurant.com (Katy Burnett)

best neighborhood market
Zaleski & Horvath MarketCafe
Named after the owners’ grandparents, Z&H has been impressing every one of its customers since opening last fall, focusing on locally produced and quality foods, sustainability, and knowledgeable, neighborly service. After only a couple of visits, owners Tim Schau and Sam Darrigrand will be greeting you by name. The market portion isn’t cheap, but the prices match the quality. The deli menu has all-original sandwiches and panini, as well as their take on the usuals, complete with creative (but not annoying) names. The “Jamon, Jamon” sandwich contains Serrano ham, manchego cheese, quince paste, Dijon mustard, mixed greens, and roasted tomato and tastes at least as incredible as it sounds. The garlic bread soup—sautéed garlic, pancetta, and onions in chicken broth with a big piece of day-old bread—reminded me of the power of homemade chicken broth base. Make sure to grab a cup of coffee made by the famous Clover machine. The Clover 1s is a single-cup coffee brewing machine whose manufacture brags—and which I can attest—releases the subtle characteristics of each type of bean better than any other brewing method. The citrus of the Nicaraguan Flor Azul and the herbal notes of the Ethiopian Yrgacheffe are instantly apparent. Z&H managed to obtain only the fourth machine in all of Chicago before Starbucks bought the manufacturer. As Tim explained, unlike the warm staff at Z&H, no one at Starbucks can take the time to chat as the Clover 1s gurgles and slurps. 1126 E. 47th St. Monday-Friday, 7am-7pm; Saturday-Sunday, 8am-6pm. (773)538-7372. zhmarketcafe.com (Ellis Calvin)

best ribs institution
Ribs n’ Bibs
A Hyde Park mainstay, this barbecue joint offers minimal indoor seating and no perks, but many locals swear by it. For a cheap late-night snack (well, late for Hyde Park—Ribs n’ Bibs closes by 1am), you’ll want a Bronco Burger ($1.75) or a Texas Burger with fries and cole slaw ($4.45), or maybe a Gun-Slinger Sausage Sandwich with fries ($3.30). If you’re ready for a meal, though, check out one of their chicken and links combos, the Ranch Owner’s Smorgasbord ($16.60), or, for tough guys, the Boss ($18.60), a giant slab of sauced-up ribs with fries, slaw, and bread. Just make sure to leave your vegetarian friends at home. Ribs n’ Bibs also delivers within Hyde Park, which is key during the long winter months. 5300 S. Dorchester Ave. Sunday-Thursday, 11am-midnight; Friday-Saturday, 11am-1am. (773)493-0400 (Sam Feldman)

Do residents and businesses appreciate all the fanfare? Simply put, they do. When asked how Obama had affected business, Paso, Valois’ manager, affirmed that many came from all over the world to see the restaurant: “People,” he said, “want to see where Obama eats.” It’s that simple. For many, Hyde Park provides a glimpse into the life of the President, and to be a part of the community that produced Obama is something that residents are proud of.

Run by the Public Square, a part of the Illinois Humanities Council, Café Society meets at a number of locations around Chicago and downstate on a mostly weekly basis. Each location hosts a meeting on a different weeknight, when everyone is invited to gather and discuss questions that the Public Square posts on its website along with suggested readings. A main aim of the group is “media literacy” and savvy interpretation of current events. This past week’s topic was the economy and the massive Wall Street bailout in particular: the discussion included whether or not taxpayers should suffer in order to save these massive corporations and what level of trust they have in the government to effectively contain the situation.

Although they usually have a facilitator sent by the Public Square to make sure they stay on topic, last week’s group didn’t seem to have much need for one. They went on tangents, of course, but they all had so much to say, and about so many things, that it seemed natural. Many in the group have been with the program for the past five years, and some lived through the ’30s and ’40s. Their perspective was, in the true sense of the word, awesome.

Best Cafeteria
Valois
On a Sunday morning, Valois “See your food” Cafeteria is a perfect cross-section of Hyde Park; families in their Sunday best, dreary, hung-over college students, and laid-back and hungry cops. Murals of Hyde Park cover the walls and even the ceiling. The line can be long, but use the time wisely and study the menu—once you reach the counter and hear the words “Next, please!” there’s no slowing down. The mustachioed cook at the helm shouts the orders over his shoulder in a Greek accent—“French toast with bacon!” or, “Veggie omelette!”—as you move down the counter to receive juice or coffee and pay up. Grab a table by the front windows for some excellent people-watching. Philip Roth used to claim a table near the counter to listen to the din of the busy kitchen. Breakfast is definitely the specialty here and is served until 4pm daily, but the lunch and dinner fare is first-rate too. The restaurant opens at 5:30am, making it the perfect treat after pulling a brutal all-nighter. And one last thing: it’s pronounced “Vuh-loize.” 1518 E. 53rd St. Monday-Sunday 5:30am-10pm. (773)667-0647 (Ellis Calvin)

Best Chews & Booze Combo
The Falcon Inn and Cholie’s Pizza
The Falcon Inn is the kind of bar that is lit by neon, although it would be much more pleasant if there were no lighting whatsoever. There are rarely many University of Chicago students or faculty and, unlike popular Hyde Park haunt Jimmy’s Woodlawn Tap, Dylan Thomas and Saul Bellow never stepped foot in here. Jimmy’s would be the best bar in Hyde Park if it weren’t for the Falcon’s cloud of South Side regulars, Video Strip Poker, and a little window that spits out Cholie’s cuisine. “The Chole Hole” sounds like an act that would be in a book entitled “The Hip Hop Guide to the Kama Sutra,” but in reality it is the holy union of the best combination since Sid and Nancy. Hyde Park has its fair share of pizza joints, but none can compare to Cholie’s. Wikitravel calls Cholie’s a “Chicago travesty.” They are so wrong. Contrary to the deep dish agony of Giordano’s, Cholie’s essentially serves cheese on a large cracker. Next time dinner is undecided, head to the Falcon and order a pitcher of Natty Ice and a large cheese pizza. Both locations at 1601 E. 53rd St. Cholie’s Pizza: 10am-11pm, every day. (773)684-8688. Falcon Inn: 12pm-2am, every day. (Tizziana Baldenebro)

Best Mexico
Maravillas
Maravillas is not Mexico. It may not even be as good as Mexico—I’ve never been. But it’s the closest thing you can get in Hyde Park, and for all intents and purposes, it’s like the same thing, minus the bad water and soul-crushing poverty. It’s all the Mexico you really need. Cheap burritos the size of your forearm, delicious horchatas, a variety of Mexican beers, Mexican pop music, Mexican soap operas playing on the tiny TV (admittedly, probably not Mexican) propped up in the corner. It’s like that cool diner from high school, only it’s not open 24 hours and it’s not Greek. But it is open pretty damn late (especially for Hyde Park) and it is Mexican. In fact, you could even go so far as to say it’s more Mexican than Mexico—okay, maybe not, everyone speaks English. But hey, that makes it all the better. 5211-G S. Harper Ave. Monday-Saturday 10am-11pm; Sunday 11am-10pm. (773)643-3155 (Gavin Fox)

Best Shoe Store
Phli
While Carrie Bradshaw-influenced yuppies fawned over Manolo Blahniks, the street urban elite were seeking out a pair of Jordans. And when the yuppies started going to Foot Locker to buy the same pair, sneakers went underground. Now the sneaker mania is exploding onto the global scene and Hyde Park happens to know all about it. Phli, the tiny storefront in Harper Court, is more of an altar to shoes than a shoe store. They have few kicks artfully hung from wires and brightly colored paintings of Nikes. Gideon, a store employee, wears a shirt that gleefully declares “SHOE porn.” On display is their one-of-a-kind collection of Phli-designed accessories; shoe masturbation, perhaps. Phli is a reversed acronym for I Love Hyde Park. They carry the top lines of Le Coq Sportif, Nike, K-Swiss, and pretty much a decent hook up with any other shoe company you can name, all for $50 to $100. Phli is about personal creativity, and with clientele like Common and Lupe Fiasco it’s easy to see why. Gideon called the shoes classy athletic wear. I wondered how Phli is a part of the University of Chicago scene, a decidedly un-athletic and un-fashion forward school. He said, “Nerds gotta look phli, too.” 5210 S. Harper Ave #F. Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm. Sun, 12-5pm. thephliworld.blogspot.com (Tizziana Baldenebro)

The Taste of Hyde Park’s buffet, spanning across three collapsible tables, was comprised of a strange hodgepodge of some of Hyde Park’s worst food: chips and salsa from Seven Ten Lanes, refried beans and rice from Maravillas, ham sandwiches from Jimmy John’s, peach cobbler from Valois, and donut holes from Dunkin’ Donuts. The selection of such foods was so blatantly mediocre that the sheer display of the buffet suggested an unwillingness to be involved and an ultimately tightfisted output on the part of the participating restaurants. For such an honorable cause, one would expect Hyde Park’s restaurant to at least donate something from their entrée menus.

That evening A. Anne Holcomb, another board member of the Hyde Park Transitional Project, noted that the diversity of cultures represented in the restaurants in the neighborhood is of worthy significance. Holcomb’s observation isn’t disputed, in that such a large showing of culinary breadth is hardly found in any other part of the city. Name any other neighborhood in Chicago that has Caribbean food and soul food separated by a stretch of bridge five yards long. Or a Korean restaurant two doors away from a Middle Eastern restaurant. Hyde Park is considerably heterogeneous—a wide selection representing at least a quarter of the UN Council participants. But at the Taste of Hyde Park, the foremost complaint comes from the stinginess and unoriginality of the restaurants in the area. For a cause that provides rent and mentoring services for struggling families on the South Side, one would expect nothing but overflowing generosity. The Taste of Hyde Park is like the aftertaste of the complimentary saltine served with a small cup of soup: salty and sadly unsatisfying.